“This is Africa's time!” You see the slogan all over. The 2010 World Cup is meant not only to benefit South Africa, but the entire continent, as the first time the event has ever been held on African soil. To this end, FIFA, the organizer of the World Cup, has for the first time allowed countries neighboring the host to accommodate some of the visiting national teams.
So Zimbabwe long ago committed over $200 million to the widening of a highway to Johannesburg, plus renovating airports and hotels. Botswana built a new airport and soccer stadiums. But Lesotho is only now in the midst of revamping its national soccer stadium, Setsoto, as requested by a visiting FIFA delegation back in 2008. So the only country which is literally surrounded by South Africa and the World Cup action will also be the one entirely missing out on direct benefits.
From the time I arrived last week I wondered if many Basotho knew soccer's month-long drama was about to start next door. Evidence wasn't manifest, save for some Coca-Cola billboards that had a little FIFA logo in the lower left corner.
As the week wore on, however, it became apparent that people were aware of something happening in the neighborhood. I saw more and more South African flags wrapped around the side mirrors of cars, and the flags of other countries competing in 2010 – Brazil, Ghana, Ivory Coast. My former school principal, 'me Tsita, even has two flags stuck to her car: a South African one alongside an American one.
People were also buying and wearing country jackets. Italy, Portugal, Spain, but especially the yellow and green of South Africa.
I asked everyone I met how they'll experience the World Cup. Most in Maseru said they'll try to watch it on television, while most in Tsoeneng said they'll try to travel to Maseru to watch it on television or at least listen on the radio. I've only met three people who are actually attending a match. One of these persons works for the Lesotho Football Association.
Lefa, as it's known, is in a sad state at the moment. The national team, called Likuena, the Crocodiles, has been suspended from international competition because of financial problems and because they can't compete at a high enough level, two problems which are certainly related. In their matches to qualify for the 2010 World Cup they lost every single time.
Still, Likuena's sorrows seemed to have been forgotten today, the day before the World Cup begins. Lesotho citizens have easily taken Bafana Bafana, South Africa's team, as their own. Vuvuzelas are blowing through town. The South African station, Supersport, is glowing on televisions.