How will your avocado tree grow and fruit if you plant it in partial shade compared to full sun? How will it grow if you’re stingy with irrigation compared to sufficient?
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We just planted a 15 gallon Reed and 5 gallon Ellington and we’re concerned about the leaves getting burned as tips were already brown and a bit yellow on Reed. We installed a sunshade over it to help temper immediately after planting but after reading this are concerned. Does it make sense to have a sunshade of any kind over either or both or would direct sun be best even after just being planted? They are also adjacent to Fence blocking afternoon sun but that cannot be helped.
Hi BB,
There should be no need for shade over avocado trees right now in Southern California, as the weather is mild, unless the trees have lost all of their leaves.
Your Reed may be losing its old leaves naturally. See this post: https://gregalder.com/yardposts/reading-avocado-leaves/
I put in two avocado trees last spring, and I always feel like I’m guessing with the drip schedule. If I’m not seeing leaf damage, should I assume they’re getting enough water?
Hi Jessica,
It is impossible to know if you’re giving your trees exactly as much water as they need. Don’t feel alone in not being sure about that. You’re always just making your best guess. And especially in a yard situation (compared to a farm situation), no two trees will have exactly the same needs because they are surrounded by different plants and near buildings or fences, etc.
See this post for a starting point on how much to water your trees: https://gregalder.com/yardposts/how-much-and-how-often-to-water-avocado-trees-in-california/
And then you have to judge based on the feel of the dirt’s moisture level where the tree roots are, as well as the appearance of the leaves, as you said.
Thank you. My avocado trees will now be out of the shade!
Okay, thanks. They’re getting vastly more than the 2.2 gallons every 6 days, but I do have sandy soil. It’s good to know that when people say avocados are thirsty, they mean a lot less water than I had assumed.
Hi Greg I have been one of your blog readers for quite a few years now. I’ve many times sung your praises; as the reason my 11 year old Hass is doing so well. I have followed your watering guide for years. When it is super hot in my area I modify it a bit and add a few more gallons but pretty much follow your guide. I have a healthy 15 foot, fruit producing beautiful tree. I dont have an automatic watering system I use a 5 gallon bucket from Lowes/Home Depot, which I’ve poked a hole into the side, about an inch from the bottom. I fill it up and let it slowly release water. Depending on time of year and how many many gallons I need. I refill it accordingly. I move to a different part of the tree each time so every leaf gets a drink. I just mark out my calendar and follow your watering schedule. Thank you so much!!
I live in San Clemente. My Hass did not flower very good this year and looks like next years crop will be small. Wonder if I did something wrong? It is a very healthy looking tree. I keep it watered and I feed it 3 or 4 times a season. Planted 15 gal tree in 2018. 2022 crop was first real crop and it was a good crop. Probably 200+ fruit. Lots flowers and a lot of fruit. Had a lot of bees during the bloom in 2021. This years crop was about half. Did not flower as good, and crop was about half of last years. Tree is growing strong, I have only lightly pruned, I want to keep it small as possible. Took out main branch last year, but it’s still over 8′ – 9′ tall and will be 12′ by end of summer pretty sure. Any thoughts on why didn’t flower as good? I fed it in March with liquid fertilizer. This spring has been cool and cloudy almost every day. And, we had that wet / windy winter. I fed it again with GroPower in May, it is really pushing out new growth right now. What should I do to have better chance of good crop next year. Should I do a little pruning now to open sun paths to lower branches? I have a young Bacon next to the Hass that looks like it will not have much fruit either after having a pretty good first crop this year, like 50 fruit or so on a 5′ tree. It didn’t flower this year very good either.
Hi Greg,
How important is winter sun? I live in Perth Western Australia, with a climate much the same as yours. My available places to plant are shaded by eucalypts for the whole day in winter, but have full summer sun. Since they don’t grow at all in winter, do they need sun then?
I am getting a Jala avocado, a giant type just released here. You should check it out, it would be great to get your opinion.
Cheers
Greg
Hi Greg,
I have paid attention to Jala from afar. I would love to taste one someday.
I’m imagining the avocado tree being planted to the north of the eucalyptus such that it’s shaded in winter. I don’t think this will be a problem unless cold is an issue and the ground gets very frosty.
If planting near large eucalyptus, it might be wise to dig a larger than usual hole in order to cut the eucalyptus roots so that the young avocado can get established without competition from the eucalyptus in its first year or two. I’ve found eucalyptus to be cruel to young avocado trees here; maybe that’s the case there, maybe not though.
Thanks Greg,
I appreciate the comments. Luckily we are far enough away for the eucalypts to not be a problem for roots, being about 40 m away. They are also up hill and just tall enough to block winter sun. They are lemon-scented gums, beautiful but enormous.
Regarding competitive roots, I do have a Hass and a Fuerte planted about 8 ft from another native, a callistemon or bottle brush tree. This is a mature tree about 12 inch diameter trunk. But doesn’t seem to affect the avo trees which are 3 years old and about 12 ft tall now. I dug around as suggested in your video and didn’t see any invasive roots for this species.
Anyway, thanks again, I’ve been lurking for years and love your work.
Cheers,
Greg