I couldn’t help but photograph and ask about every food garden I saw even though I was in Indonesia for another reason. It was a surf trip. But for a few days before and after the surfing, I explored parts of North Sumatra to observe what people grew and what they ate. This is what I saw.

The main pattern I noticed was that three plants were ubiquitous: banana, mango, and papaya.

Bananas (and sugarcane) in a garden plot near Lake Toba.

The bananas they grew were of two types, cooking or sweet. Pisang is their word for bananas, and they fry pisang and also eat pisang as a fresh snack. The most common sweet, snacking bananas were small and similar to the varieties I like to grow in California (such as Namwah).

For my surf trip, I stayed on a boat with six friends. Our boat was stocked with bunches of these small, sweet bananas for snacking.

Mango trees were like weeds. Not only were they in every yard, but they were also in abandoned fields and road medians. Mango trees were everywhere I looked. All looked like seedlings, not grafted trees, but few had fruit left on them at this time, early October. It was the tail end of mango harvest season, unfortunately.

Mango tree with a few mangos still hanging, Bukit Lawang.

I had big dreams of being able to taste a bunch of fresh mangos off of local trees on this trip, but because of the season there were few mangos to try and most were stringy, bland or even off-flavored. Near the end though, I obtained this fine-tasting fruit which I was told had been grown on the neighboring island of Java:

Rounding out the trio was papayas. On the boat we ate papaya with breakfast every morning.

Papaya tree in a garden among coconuts, bananas, dragon fruit, and more.

What’s the climate like on Sumatra?

Sumatra is the largest island of the chain that makes up the country of Indonesia, which is composed of thousands of islands. Although called an island, Sumatra is bigger than California, and I only visited a portion of the northern half of it.

The equator runs through Sumatra. There is no place more tropical.

Sunset and sunrise are near 6 AM and 6 PM year round.

There are clouds in the sky every day. It rained almost every day I was there. It rains almost every day of the whole year.

But it was warm rain. Even in the rain, even if it was rainy and windy, I never wanted to wear more than shorts and a t-shirt.

Other fruits

So because of the constant rain and the constantly warm temperatures, all sorts of other tropical plants grew happily in gardens: sugarcane, rambutan, pineapple, coconut trees, dragon fruit, etc.

Dragon fruit plants in a home garden.
All of the dragon fruit I found in the area was red fleshed and good quality.
Pineapples in a home garden.

I spotted just a few avocado trees too.

This seedling avocado tree was growing on the grounds of a guesthouse in Bukit Lawang. It had a single fruit on it, which had green skin that was moderately bumpy.

Coconut day

Once during our stay on the boat, we swam to an island . . .

where a family was growing coconut trees around their house . . .

and they offered to harvest and open some for a small price.

We drank the water and then ate the flesh, and then we all agreed that coconut never tasted so good.

Vegetables

In terms of vegetables, I saw mostly tomatoes, cucumbers, and chili peppers. Food was very spicy. I like chili peppers, but I could not handle the level of spice that local Indos were comfortable with.

A plot of chili peppers being established near the edge of the jungle of the Gunung Leuser National Park. Note the weed growth and strategy of plastic mulch to suppress it.
Chili peppers for sale at the street market in Lubuk Pakam.

But the most common vegetable that I saw in gardens was cassava. People eat the roots, and they also boil the leaves.

Cassava plants.

I found Indonesian people to be extremely hospitable. One day a large extended family was having a reunion near a river and they invited my brother and me to eat with them.

My plate at the family reunion: rice, fish, sambal (chili peppers), jengkol (seed), and cassava leaves.

There were many fruit trees and vegetable plants in home gardens that I was unable to identify, but the above were what I saw most of and could name.

You know what I never saw? Irrigation.

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