Maybe you only have space for one avocado tree, but you want maximum fruit production. You could try keeping a small tree of the opposite flower type (A/B) in a container next to your main tree. During spring when they’re both in bloom, the bees can use the pollen from the container tree to pollinate the flowers of the main tree.
I got this idea from a gardener friend who kept a potted Zutano (B type) next to her Don Gillogly (A) and Holiday (A) trees. She called the Zutano her “stud.” And it seemed to be working, as her main trees were setting more fruit than they had in previous years.
Here’s a video showing an Edranol (B) avocado tree in a container placed next to a larger Gwen (A) avocado tree in my yard, and showing how the bees easily move from the flowers of one tree to the other, making cross pollination — and higher fruitset — likely.
Update June 9, 2021:
The Gwen is now done flowering. How is the fruitset?
The fruitset is very good, as you can see in this follow-up video:
A few extra details: I had the Edranol beside the Gwen from April 13 until it stopped flowering at the end of April.
At that time, I moved the Edranol and placed a different (unnamed) B-type avocado in a container that was blooming beside the Gwen. I kept this second mobile pollenizer tree beside the Gwen until May 26. Both the container tree and the Gwen wrapped up their bloom season about then.
I tagged some inflorescences on the Gwen in mid April and again at the end of April to try to gauge the effectiveness of the pollen of each B-type container tree. Fruitset was good during both periods, but it was even better during the latter.
But was this due to the mobile pollenizer trees, or was it due to weather conditions, extra bee activity, or other factors? We can’t know.
I’ll tell you what I’ve done though. I’ve planted those two B-type trees near my Gwen.
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Brilliant idea!
So I tried a similar concept. I have 5 “A” types and 2 “B” types. My Stewart tree is right next to my Fuerte. But here’s the problem I just ran into. My Stewart was absolutely full of blooms, but none of my other trees were. Therefore, now that the Stewart is done blooming, it doesn’t seem like any of the flowers got pollinated. Have you ever had this issue?
By the way, I’m enjoying the calendar.
Hi Nathan,
Good to hear you’re enjoying the calendar. Yes, I’ve experienced that. In fact, the little Edranol in the video has set almost no fruit. Last year, I put a little Reed next to my Fuerte and it set no fruit. But I didn’t want the small potted trees to set fruit anyway. I just want their pollen available for the bigger trees.
If you really want to do this in the best way, you need to choose a pollen donor variety that blooms about the same time as the main variety, of course. That’s easier said than done. You need to know when varieties generally bloom, which is not easy information to come by.
In your situation, Stewart usually peaks in bloom earlier than Fuerte, as you know, and it’s usually the later part of the Fuerte bloom that sets the most fruit anyway. An A type like Hass would have better potential as a Fuerte pollenizer. Pinkerton too.
Hi Greg,
I have not had very good results with a few of my avocados. I planted 1 year ago April and have since lost 2 trees. A SirPrize and a Fuerte both ST clonal purchased from Eli. The other that is struggling is a Hass ST clonal. All of my trees have great drainage and by all accounts water has been sufficient. The Ph is high and I have been mulching and using Ph lowering methods with no tangible results. The other varieties of Hass , Reed and Lamb on Zutano root stock are doing very well. The Fuerte and Surprize would get a new growth then lose the leaves, turning yellow before falling off. I am going to replace the failed trees, but this time I want to try taking those babies and potting them graduating the container size as they grow, prior to transplanting. Have you had experience with using this method vs planting in ground right away?
I tried earlier to contact Eli, he may be away. Any ideas you may have, I’m all ears. Your advise and experiences with this and other gardening fun are always so much appreciated!! By the way I live in Valley Center over looking Pauma Valley and am surrounded by beautiful avo and orange groves.
Hi Greg,
Sorry to hear about the struggles of the new trees. What is the pH exactly? What did you use to lower pH?
Are all your trees (clonal and Zutano) planted together in essentially the same environment?
It so happens that last year I started trying what you describe. In October, I had three Hass trees of about the same size and I planted two but put one in a larger container. The one in the container flushed new growth earlier than those in the ground, maybe because the container soil warmed up earlier and I kept the tree in a warmer spot over winter. But now those in the ground are flowering and flushing and look like they will catch up very soon. At the moment, I’m guessing that I won’t again keep a tree potted rather than get it into the ground as it doesn’t look like it gave a real advantage but just gave an earlier flush. But it’s too early to make a hard conclusion. (Also, I have to note that the trees are on different rootstocks, which could explain away every difference in growth!)
I’ll jump in here uninvited with a couple suggestions. I find that young trees grow better and faster in containers and when I plant them in the ground using 50/50 planter mix to native soil they sometimes take off and other times do poorly – I have a Reed and a Nabal that I grafted that were growing great in the 5 gallon containers and didn’t love the new planting soil in the ground. They are coming back now, so it takes time. I suggest just giving them plenty of water every other day and don’t try all the additives. Plenty of mulch around the tree is necessary – I use the wood chip mulch from HD and Lowes. Also, too much drainage in the soil will cause it to dry out too fast. And if you put up something like a screen or net to lower the light intensity I think they will do better.
From what I understand having A and B types together are not necessary unless you live in a tropical region. The reason being the cooler weather slows down the cycle of the male and female flower parts causing overlap. Therefore the tree can self pollinate itself in a non-tropical region. I get Avocados on my single Hass tree with no other trees in the neighborhood.
I think I now understand why my Little ‘Cado (Wurtz), type A, is out producing all my other type A’s (Reed, GEM, & Pinkerton): It has a Sharwil, type B, planted almost in the same hole, while the others are a few feet away. It’s so funny to see this “dwarf” 20’ high and loaded, with the others so empty. But the Wurtz is 20 years old , and the rest only 5, so maybe that has something to do with it. 🙂
Greg, a portable tree A or B type to compliment the planted tree is such a simple idea and yet I never thought of it! I could have used this idea 10 years ago. I ended up planting a Hass next to the 2 Fuerte trees and grafted Hass and Reed to the Fuerte trees, so now I don’t need the portable tree – but a genius idea – thanks for sharing that!
And, in my opinion, you got 10X the pollination!
I live in Cape Town. I have a Pinkerton and a Fuerte that are in peak condition Both are about 10 years old. I do not get any fruit. I read that Fuerte will not set fruit if the temp drops below about 20C. Please help
Phil
I live in Cape Town. What type of Avo tree should I plant in mobile pot to pollinate a Pinkerton and a Fuerte.
Hi Phil,
Do you get plenty of flowers on both of those trees? (It’s just that they don’t set fruit?)
Planted my Reed thanksgiving 2020 and is doing well with lots of new leaves and is now about 7’ with a canopy of 3-4’. No fruit this year but not worried. I have two questions. 1. Should I try to shade the tree during Aug/sept. (I’m up in Murrieta). 2. Does Reed need a pollinator and if so what kind? Thanks for answering. I enjoy your column and calendar.
Hi Robin,
I wouldn’t try to shade your Reed daily this summer. Just be sure it’s watered well and watered in advance of any heat waves. Still, it would be wise to have a plan for protection if we get a nasty heat wave — I’m thinking of temperatures of over 110. See my post about the options: https://gregalder.com/yardposts/protecting-avocado-trees-from-heat/
Reed doesn’t need a pollenizer (another avocado tree, especially of an opposite flower type). I’ve seen numerous lone Reed trees in different yards producing well. My own Reed has only a Lamb near it (another A type), but even one year when the Lamb didn’t flower at all the Reed still set tons of fruit. Farmers who grow Reed never bother planting pollenizers for it. More on Reed here: https://gregalder.com/yardposts/the-reed-avocado-tree-a-profile/
Thanks!
Thanks for your response. I understand completely of the above. But my concern is we will be fine from Aug 30-Oct 9. Think we should cover just in case (we’ve only been in Murrieta
1 year so far so not that familiar with sept temps)
Hi, Greg. I’m in central L.A. I’ve got a Hass (planted about 16 mo. ago) that last year only produced 2 avocados. It is blooming well right now and I want to do what I can to get it to set fruit. Any thoughts about where I might get a B type that is also flowering to either plant near my Hass or park near it? I’d like to get a beehive, but my daughter-in-law is severely allergic. Thanks, Tim
Hi Greg.
I’m getting ready to plant Gwen and considering placing Edranol nearby and possibly another B type (all in the ground). I see from your post that Edranol flower overlap occurred early in Gwen’s flowering period. What other B type would you recommend to compliment the later part of Gwen’s flowering period? I’m in nearby Vista.
Cheers,
Tyler
Thanks for all your wonderful information.