These are the rules of thumb that I try to keep in mind for watering fruit trees during late spring, summer, and early fall (think May or June into October):
If the fruit tree is two feet wide (about as wide as your body), then give it two gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is five feet wide (about as wide as your wingspan), then give it ten gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is ten feet wide (about as wide as a driveway), then give it fifty gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is fifteen feet wide (about as wide as the door of a two-car garage), then give it one hundred gallons each week.
This is a great place to start
Now, there are a million reasons why those numbers won’t be perfectly accurate for a particular fruit tree in your yard. There are a million reasons that different fruit trees growing in different parts of even a single yard — let alone different pockets of Southern California — need to be given different amounts of water in order to be healthy and produce lots of quality fruit. But they are a reliable place to start, in my experience.
If you are wondering how much water to give a particular fruit tree, place it within the above size category and give it that approximate number of gallons each week.
A couple of examples
For example, here is a Satsuma mandarin tree that is not quite as wide as my outstretched arms — I’d guess four feet wide.
How much water should I give it? The rules of thumb say around eight gallons each week. I would start there and see how the tree looks and how the soil feels going forward. It so happens that I actually give this tree somewhat more, which satisfies the thirst of that melon vine I planted beneath it.
Another example: here is a Snow Queen nectarine tree that is wider than my wingspan but not quite as wide as a driveway. I’ll say eight or nine feet wide.
So maybe it needs around 35 gallons of water each week according to the rules of thumb above.
Let me tell you, however, that I only give this tree about 25 gallons of water each week and it does great. Every tree is different, and you get to know what your tree really needs by starting somewhere (the rules of thumb) and then evaluating and adjusting as the tree’s foliage and soil give you feedback. (For more on this, please see my post “Get your hands dirty: Discover the truth about your irrigation practices.”)
Notes on the rules of thumb
This is not to say that you need to water once each week. You might water once a week, twice a week, or every two weeks. Often, it doesn’t matter much, especially with older trees. Anyway, that’s a separate topic. (And a good one for a future post!)
Also, remember that a fruit tree doesn’t need this much all year long. These amounts are mostly accurate for the warm months of May or June into October. During the cool months of October or November through winter and on into May, the fruit tree will need less. Often, a fruit tree needs no irrigation water at all from December through March because of the cool temperatures and sufficient rainfall.
How much water is your sprinkler applying?
If you are using a micro-sprinkler or sprayer on a fruit tree and you don’t know its output, you can stick it into a bucket for ten minutes and then measure how much water it put into the bucket. Multiplying this amount by six gives you a gallons-per-hour rating.
For example, the other day I measured that a sprayer on a young avocado tree put out about 0.75 gallons in ten minutes, which is about 4.5 gallons per hour.
The tree is just under five feet wide, so if I want to give it around ten gallons per week, then I need to run the sprayer for about two hours per week.
Again, the rules of thumb for how much to water fruit trees:
If the fruit tree is two feet wide (about as wide as your body), then give it two gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is five feet wide (about as wide as your wingspan), then give it ten gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is ten feet wide (about as wide as a driveway), then give it fifty gallons each week.
If the fruit tree is fifteen feet wide (about as wide as the door of a two-car garage), then give it one hundred gallons each week.
That’s 2 feet, 2 gallons; 5 feet, 10 gallons; 10 feet, 50 gallons; and 15 feet, 100 gallons — each summer week. Is your watering volume close to this? It doesn’t have to be, but if you’re feeling unmoored and unsure of where to start, then start here.
Other posts about watering fruit trees:
Setting up micro-sprinklers under fruit trees
How much and how often to water avocado trees in California
Keep mulch away from tree trunks?
What is the best time of day to water your plants?
All of my Yard Posts are listed HERE
I thank you for supporting my Yard Posts so I don’t have to clog the website with ads.
Hi Greg
What about watering tree that are being kept in a container. I have a dwarf navel orange with about a 1.5 foot canopy. I am keeping it in a 20 gallon clay pot. I’ve been giving it 2 gallon every 3 days and it doesn’t seem to be enough.
-James
Hi James,
Can I ask what makes you think that amount doesn’t seem to be enough?
For example, citrus trees curl up their leaves like taco shells when they’re thirsty. Do you see that or is the soil giving you an indication or something else?
Hi Greg
yes..that is the sign I’m seeing with my orange tree. The leaves is cupping/curling up. The potting mix i’m using is sand, peat moss, and pumice.
As for trees in container, is there a rule of thumb for watering them?
Thank you
A rule of thumb for trees in containers is that you have to water more frequently compared to the same tree in the ground.
The number of gallons needed might be almost the same, but you need to split those gallons into more, smaller waterings. A couple reasons are the roots have a comparatively small volume of soil to pull water from, plus the fact that the container “soil” is usually like yours and drains rapidly and doesn’t hold much water.
Try approximately one gallon every other day. Then if there’s a hot spell you probably need to water every day, possibly even twice a day. See how the tree responds to that regimen.
Maybe, what I do, might help you. I grow rootstock and then graft to it in containers on my deck. Typically, I use the standard 5 gallon black plastic containers with a tray underneath to collect dripping water. I put a thick layer of Lowes bark mulch close to the top of the container. I give them enough water, so that about 4 oz. goes into the tray. When the weather is humid it takes longer for the tray water to evaporate. I use the dry tray to gauge the rate of water loss for the plant. I find that when the trays are dry I can then give the plants a small amount of water without fear of over watering. Drainage is good, but if the water is going through your soil and not wetting it enough maybe you need to add something that will hold the water longer.
I planted my avocado trees about a month ago and have a 4-5 ft diameter circle of mulch around each tree. I am now increasing it to a 7 ft circle (about 40 inches from trunk) and I have multiple palm tree seeds sprouting in this area. Am I keeping the ground too moist if these are starting to sprout (at least 15 of them)? I have seen seeds grow in concrete, so I know they can grow anywhere, but I have only noticed a few (less than are currently sprouting) growing in the yard in the last 8 years I have lived here. Is there something to do so seeds don’t sprout in this area that the roots will soon be in? Eventually all the seeds will be sprouted, but my neighbors tree provides 1000s of them every year and the squirrels can only eat so many. I am going to have to research squirrel prevention when my trees start producing fruit.
Thanks
Hi Paul,
It’s very possible that you’re not keeping the ground too moist. I’ve seen palm seeds sprout in my yard without much moisture too.
I don’t know of anything you can do to stop those seeds from continually sprouting. Sounds like pulling up young palms will just have to be part of your routine.
What are your thoughts on the impact of using mulch to conserve moisture and reduce evaporation? I’ve found this year I am irrigating far less frequently due to weather. I also utilize a moisture meter to assist in determining whether to turn on the irrigation or wait another week. And with mulch, weather and the moisture meter I’ve found I might only irrigate once in June and maybe twice on the one side of my yard. Whereas on another side I’m irrigating weekly to bi-weekly. Thanks for all your posts.
I’ve found the same thing, Justin. This June has been very mild and I’m watering far less than normal. It’s the weather, plus the wood chips. My frequencies have been about the same as yours. The avocados have been wanting weekly to biweekly waterings, but the deciduous trees are going farther between irrigations. I’m loving this mild June (except for that brief heat wave).
Hi Greg, I totally dig all the great information I’ve read on your posts. I gotta a couple of avocado trees (lamb hass and sir prize) I planted last fall. Both are thriving and the Sir prize even has two avocados, it had 8-10 but has dropped them. Anyway, I’m huge fan of several inches of mulch recommendation on the ground. But when I dug down to do a moisture check today, about a million sugar ants erupted from the ground / mulch. Question is do you worry about any colonies, or just let them be? Thanks-Jamie
Hi Jamie,
Lamb and Sir-Prize will be a nice combination.
I dislike the ants, but I leave them be. They irritate me, but I haven’t seen them irritate the trees so I don’t get stressed about them.
Hi Greg, absolutely love the blog.
Quick question, I’m actually located inland NorCal (Livermore). We get very hot in the summer, with little to no marine influence. Winter lows can get down to mid 20’s very rarely. Most year’s 27°- 28°. I have planted a Fuerte Avocado close to the house and wrap in the winter with Xmas lights and frost cloth. The tree is about 3′ tall by about 18″ wide. How many gallons of water would you estimate a tree like this would need per week? My Soil is clay, supplemented with cactus soil for drainage, but still not great drainage.
Hi Ron,
I did write a post specifically about watering avocados (“How much and how often to water avocado trees in California”). I think you can use the numbers on the chart in that post to get an estimate. The chart says your tree might need roughly three gallons per week in summer. See how that goes for a couple weeks and adjust as necessary.
The chart mentions trying a frequency of every five days, but that is likely too infrequent for a new tree in a hot location like yours. I’d try about every three days here in its first summer. See if it wilts before the next watering and adjust. Also look out for yellowing leaves that also wilt, which might indicate watering too often. Always poke your fingers into wherever the roots are to get a true feel for what’s going on though.
Thank Greg!
I’ll give it a try.
I confess that I have killed two avocado trees and stunted one into a bonsai due to overwatering. I got a fairly cheap soil moisture probe on Amazon and it opened my eyes to how moist the soil is. Often the surface is dry but 6 inches down it’s moist.
How is your pomegranate harvest this year? I counted only 10 blooms that held out of at least a hundred. I harvested close to maybe 40? fruits last year off the tree. Another youtuber said that when it rains heavily his production drops. Also have much fewer grapefruit set than last year as well. Just curious how things have gone with you?
Hi Zen,
My pomegranates have about the usual number of fruit on them, maybe slightly less. But my trees are probably not good ones for comparison here because I don’t water them. They’ve always been on their own, growing just off of rainfall.
Are there any other types of fruit trees that you have had success with growing with only rainfall?
Hi Greg, Great post! All your posts are helpful to a San Diego food gardener. I adjusted my watering based on your recommendations. Instantly (within days) saw new growth atop my Valencia, Bearrs, and Eureka. Question: is this a bad sign for them to be putting out new growth now? (late May) Or is this a good sign of proper watering? I am now watering at the foliage line and using buckets to fill a dug-out trench. It helps me measure and learn. My trees are 3 years old and in full sun.
Hi Alex,
Glad to hear your trees are growing well. It’s fine for them to still be putting out new growth now although most of my citrus are about done with their spring flush. It’s possible that they’re responding to the watering. If citrus trees are water stressed, they often respond to new watering by growing new leaves and flowering, no matter the time of year.
Your watering amounts are about dead on what I am supplying except..:… I am watering several times a week. I am in Palm Springs and the water just drains through the sand and the trees just dry out in my super low humidity. I have combined a drip system every other day with filling the tree wells twice a week. Everything survives through the summer except avocados, unfortunately.
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for the feedback. Good to know this rule of thumb works for you in Palm Springs too. I didn’t mean to imply that you should only water once per week. I water only once per week or once every two weeks on some trees whereas I water about every other day in the summer for avocados. The frequency can vary a lot depending on soil type, as you noted. But the total volume applied per week won’t vary.
Hi Greg – Thank you again for your very helpful post. A bit off topic, but what brand of watering can is that in the first picture?
Hi Steven,
I wish I knew but I inherited it. The label only says “MS Galvanized Can.” It’s very well-made. I’ve been using it for eight years and who knows how long it had been used before me.
Hi Greg- bummer, it does let ok like a good one and I need a new good one. A Google search came up with nada. Oh well, the search goes on.
Have a great rest of the weekend!
It was supposed to say it does look like a good one. Auto correct is not my friend.
HI Greg,
I have a satsuma and a reed planed in semi clay soil (the soil under the satsuma is worse). I mounded both of them, the reed maybe 8 inches high and the satsuma maybe 14 inches (both were bought as 5 gallon trees and kept in 20 gallon buckets for 2 years). One problem I’ve been having is that no matter how much I water them, the water just runs right off the mound and the soil just beyond the surface (like 1mm down) is bone dry. I didn’t realize this for months until the trees started showing some distress. Do you think the trees will be okay once the roots start seeking more water and spread away from the mound? Thanks as always!
Hi Chris,
The best solution to this problem is a coarse mulch. I prefer wood chips. Spread the mulch right under tree where you’re watering.
In addition, it helps to water at a low volume. Or you can water in two stages: first just wet the surface, and then 15 minutes later come back to do your real irrigation.
Greg, thank you so much for taking the time to write this post.
I’ve also got a San Diego garden and a newbie to all of it. Everywhere I ask and read, I see the guidance for watering in terms of “inches”, and am advised to water first, then stick my finger in the soil to see how long it takes to dry out. I understand that’s due to the variance between gardens (location, soil type, climate, position, etc..). But that advice has never worked well for me. Sometimes cold soil feels like wet soil. Sometimes I forget.
Your blog post was the ONLY place I could find where I was given actual volumes of water for my citrus trees to start with, and just as I see needed. Lucky for me that you’re in the same geographic zone.
Anyways just wanted to say I appreciate the effort to share your knowledge here!
Thanks for taking the time to write this. I wrote this post because I had the same frustration you experienced.
Hi Greg,
I’ve recently (today actually) planted an apricot, Cara Cara orange, blood orange, Meyer lemon, nectarine, and lime trees on a flat surface. I have a 1/2 in. drip tube that I plan on running. I calculated that it takes 42 seconds to fill a 5-gallon bucket with water (water faucet on full-blast), which means that I can fill 400 gallons of water in an hour. What I’m trying to figure out is how much water my drip system emitter would produce in an hour and for how long to run it.
These newly planted trees have a canopy width of 2 – 2.5ft. Side note, I plan on having my drip run early in the morning for 3 days/week. Any extra advice here?
Thank you!
I have 2 fig trees….black
Mission, & Kadota green….
I see lots of fruit on them…
I am in So.Cal not far from San Diego… how much water on the conservative side…. we are on water ration in this county….
Two trees are about 15 years old….. lots of fruit in the past years…